ECS Strut Service/Rebuild?

After a month of trial use threw some paint and chrome . Here is the final result.





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I purchased the Renegade ECS Controller. It is working well with my old ECS struts. The ECS struts will go from low to medium and return to low; will go from low to medium, then medium to high and return to low. These struts have been stuck on the sports mode, since I bought the GT in 2002, for about 150,000 miles. The old ECS struts seem to be working as intended.

I bought two used pair of front ECS struts and two new rear ECS struts. I followed front ECS strut disassembly process at 3000GT/GTO restoration. I got the front ECS strut casings and top hats sand blasted and black powder coated. I think they looked brand new. I added 250 ml of 10w shock fluid to each strut. For testing purposes: One strut has a gas bag and other does not yet have a gas bag. The 250 ml shock fluid did not reach the top of the strut casing. I put the seals on. I moved both steel strut rods up and down several times on both casing. Both are very stiff to move the rod. I got some air bubbles. The rods on both struts once down, the rods would not move up like a new rear ECS strut would. I am unsure of next steps. In the circle race track twin tube strut they put the gas bag in and filled shock fluid to the top of the strut casing. I tried that too. I do not know the process to reactivate the struts. I have been told that different struts can be different. For now, I think I have reached a dead end with rebuilding the struts until I get more information.

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Hi everyone, is there any solution for stuck ecs struts? Mine it has 61k miles i think they still have more miles to do before a change. What do you think?

Are the struts stuck or is the ECS computer just bad, or do you have wiring issues going to the ECS caps?

No only the strut stucks, the ecs computer is good, the caps we caps changed from one side to another the fault was still on the same shocks, otherwise if they were the caps they could have showed the error on the opp side.

Has anyone started to offer this service yet that has successfully rebuilt struts? I have fronts with only 3K miles that have failed. Struts still look brand new but won’t rise up when compressed by hand anymore.

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I know this is an old post, but here goes.
Today I tried taking apart en front ECS strut as it would easily compress and very slowly rebound.
Figured I would give it ago and fill it with oil and a schrader valve.
When I went and pried on the crimped bit i heard a very clear PSSSSST as pressure was released in the shock. Afterwards I could feel the strut had a much slower rebound.

The plan:
Will try to rebuild the strut.
Read a schrader valve in brass should be able to hold op to 130PSI, which is easily sufficient, but to be safe, will tig in a bong then screw in a shradervalve made of stainless.
Use Nitrogen from a tyreshop to fill it with “aired nitrogen” from a tyre shop. 70% nitrogen 30% air.
Lets see if it works.

Will take Georgeh experience and test it out.
[georgeh210]
After taking mine on a shock dyno it seems that 25pci works best. The shock started having hysteresis below 10pci.Anything above 30pci l was told would make the shock not function correctly. As for them having nitrogen it is a fact. When new( not old stock sitting for over 20 years) the piston is compressed with some difficulty and retracts upon release. The picture also confirms the presence of gas.

Hello,
I’m sure I’m not the only one waiting for the results of this!

What we need to realise with the nitrogen issue is that it is used on the shocks as it is more inherenlty stable with temprature increases. Shocks going full chat generate incredible heat with the friction of the oil passing through the restrictors. Air filled shocks degenrate and become soft and spongy after prelonged high performance use. Nitrogen will be more stable and give a more consistent performance. Certain road and racing car tyres will have this in them to keep an equel tread pattern as the nitrogen remains nuetral in volume. Its put in under pressure to stop the boiling oil producing bubbles and thinning the oil.

I have some parts that I am waiting for.
I am currently waiting for some Schrader valves made from steel, så they can be welded on to the shock. I am no fan of braising. Mostly because I have no experience with it, also because I trust the strength of fused metals unlike filling.
With the Schrader valve it should be easy to adjust the pressure inside the valve to ones own accord.
I just need to figure out the rebound force from an original shock.

It looks like you could be onto something but i would approach an actual suspension rebuilder, not a reseller to get the base oil weight, and gas pressure/mixture in the ballpark first. You will save a few further rebuilds and throwing a two tonne car around with bad setup generaly scrubs tyres, blows seals, damages linkages and looks for ditches.

I do understand your concerns, I have the same thoughts about rates. I did find the information I am looking for, but I will try it out first, then afterwards share my findings with Joe.
Maybe even do service rebuild requests at some point. We will see. If not I will share my findings to others that have more time than me

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Haha.
I really appreciate your confidence in me but I have to re-confirm that I am not any sort of professional mechanic or specialist in this field.
It seems that most people are finding different information to what I understand about these shocks which is partly why I have not gone any further with looking into rebuilding them or providing information to others.
Some of the information I have seen is wildly wrong and likely to lead to serious injury so I have to assume that it is an intentional red herring.
I hope that someone finds all the correct answers but please tread carefully and don’t be led down the wrong road. Remember, these shocks operate differently to many others on the market.

A little update. I have received all the parts for the rebuild now and am basically set up to experiment now.
I have disassembled the strut, got some stainless steel shradervalves that are tested for high pressure systems
Got some shock absorber oil that is used in some kW shocks.
Seals have been received yesterday from Joe.
Spqrce information, because I want to do all the testing first, then share some of it :grin:

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There is a firm here in Brazil each put gas in those shocks. My 3000GT VR4shocks were down and very hard after they put gas it became very nice.
Now after 5 years they are low again. Five years ago I paid U$100 for putting gas on all of them.
I came to them with the shocks already removed.
They didn’t ask how much ips they should insert but it did work well. Now I’m looking for make the ECS work hopefully.So I came here for some advise.

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Are the NOK seals still available to purchase? If so, can someone post the link as I haven’t been able to find them. Thanks!

I still have some left. I am on my way back from Ukraine at the moment so the link has been shut down until I return. Please pm me next week and I will sort you out.

Can you provide the manufacturer and part number for those valves?

Sure but before I start sharing stuff I would rather test it out myself first.
First strut has been made and I am waiting for the next weekend. I have an appointment, to see if it’s the right choice or not.
For for now I just filled them with air to see if they would hold pressure which they do.
Going to use an Aircon test system to remove the air in the system and fill with nitrogen.
Although the oil I am using is normally used with air, I just want that extra bit of safety

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Hello Joe! I need a pair too! How much cost each ?