I got around to doing the back end of the car over the winter after doing the front last year. Its finally back together and drives really sharp and solid. Not hard work at all, just an awfull lot of it that takes a very long time in the garage or outside on the drive in all weathers after work but very rewarding.
Before
After
Amazing work you’ve done there, I understand the amount of work as I’m also doing everything on the driveway, after work and influenced by the weather, so yeah, great job you’ve done there 
respect
Great job. What is the coating that you used on the underbody?
I decided not to use any, just extra paint and lacquer coats. This way i can see if anything starts to breakout and rust so i can jump on it rather than it going on under the surface for a while before its spotted. I did toy with the idea of Raptor stone chip matched to the colour but it is worse to get off than the typical black stuff and really sticks to the paint. Mine is a Uk car so its gets attacked by rust inside and out. Arches and filches are blackjack but this will be removed at some point and something more researched applied
Any sign of humidity inside the cabin, or boot, must have a source. It’s a matter of finding, sealing, replacing or even manufacturing gaskets out of neoprene or butyl , in order to stop the water going inside.
If this is done, the car will never rust from the inside.
I meant the uk cars were not galvanised like the jdm ones. Rust will attack in between the two floor levels by getting in the multiple jig holes under the car.
I think the galvanising thing is a myth, as far as I know all the shells were made and painted in Japan, then components added as per their target market and probably further modified in the UK/Europe for additional domesticated bits.
I’ve had and seen UK cars that are original and solid and seen and had JDM GTO’s that were rotten (handbrake snapped off) so I think its purely down to how long the car has been in the UK, where it has been kept and if its been driven in winter.
All that said, cracking job on the restoration - you must have had the brake/fuel lines and rear power steering lines for quite a while as I think they have been unavailable for years?
Andy
Ah, lol, my bad I realise you had said in another post you rubbed down and repainted the original lines, you’re very lucky they must have been in great condition to start with!
The car had been garaged during most of it life so they were not that bad, peeling outer coat and a few bits of surface rust but easily removed and prepped. I left the fronts attached but plenty of safe flex in them to get to where you need to but they were spotless towards the front of the car. I had a brake line go last year. A tiny section of brake line rusted out on a bulkhead fixing clip on the line that goes from rear driver up over the sub frame to the rear passenger. It happened a week before one of our mountain grand tours when i was bleeding the lines after replacing the front pads which was perfect timing. Thats what made me overhaul the rear end but found out it was an isolated fault but well worth the work.
