Questions about my restoration gto z16a tt AWD

I bought a gto z16a tt AWD import 83000miles still unsure if the clocks are in kilometers or changed to miles the car it’s self is a complete restoration it was sat for 5 years covered in green moss and plants growing inside it I had to save it as of 8 months ago I got it as a complete novice I have never worked on a car on this scale general things here and there but nothing of this level it has opened my eyes to what it takes to rebuild cars I have become a complete research geek constantly reading my emanual, YouTube videos a have a few close mechanical buddy’s who I can ring in a moment of crisis as of now I have successfully removed the front subframe rear subframe propshaft trans axle all the necessary body panels underbody all brackets there was alot of of swearing on the bumpers due to bolt snapping but I suppose that’s how it goes I have big plans for this car due to the market for parts being ridiculously poor and pricy mechanics turning me away for timing belts etc I was met with a decision sell it on or master the car I have made it my duty to master the ims and outs of this car with the help of research these forms and the YouTube videos all the work will be undertaken by myself all I’ve got Is a mind and basic tools and alot of manuals for nm torque specs etc all the stuff needed to complete the fitment of every part to every nut and bolt correctly… As the car developes so will my experience and knowledge the way I see it

There’s a good few receipts in the glove box adding up to about £6500+ 5k on the engine alone which is ridiculous
There’s
Lenso project d alloys never touched 100miles
Bc coilovers
Pitroad strut braces front and back
Evil empire 13t turbos
Evil empire maft Translator pro
Blue flame exhaust system
Apparently the cars capable of 450 ponies

But the plan of attack is first

Strip It which is done…

Plenty of zip lock bags with sticky notes and what goes where haha

Replace boots, cv joints, tie rods drop links rebuild coil overs. re spray sway bars and subframes and suspension arms cv shafts

Scrub up surface rust under body once smooth in order
Corroseal Rust converter
Rust encapsulator
Tetrosyl Waxoyl

I will be deleting the 4ws and the fuel evap line as I feel these are not essential and can be problematic with a car that’s parts are barley there and silly overpriced the plan is to settle for no less than immaculate but also replace what I can with parts that will help this car last my life time with the help of me looking after it with general maintainance and services

From there i am going ptfe braided on brake lines and fuel lines

As far as I’m aware
The main line 1/2"
The return 3/8"???. I have heard to keep the return the same as the main can anyone who could help me on this would be appreciated

Brakes 3/16" dash 4 can someone please also tell me if this is correct I will be buying pre fab evil empire hoses for the caliper connections with the braided line

Once all complete and done to my approval the engine will be hoisted out everything tagged and plenty pictures for reference

Ready for a good service sealing up gaskets sort worn areas tubes pipes brackets bolts. fluid drain and flush clean up the bay degrease the engine polish up manifold and rocker cover and much more check in on the clutchs condition etc

But the biggest challenge of all with alot of thanks to Joe’s video on YouTube that I have watched about 10 times and taken lots of notes I will be replacing the timing belt whether it takes me 20 attempts or 1 attempt I will get it and I will not start the car until I am certain its all lines up but I suppose I can’t master the car if I back out of the challenges I’m faced with this project is definitely a big one and it’s my first take apart and but back together car I’ve only ever broke cars once the engines in theres a few bits of stone chips on the paint work to sort out and bad lacquer peel on the head lights the head lights are not stock and also not working I’ve not looked to much into it just yet but I’m sure you’ll hear more from me on this handy forum maybe not in paragraphs next time haha.

My questions

I am paying 450 something like that for a timing belt kit from evil empire can anyone point me in the direction of a cheaper one that is just as good?

Also the sizes of the fuel lines and brake lines I stated are correct

Anything any of you guys can think of to help me on my way would be welcomed very much

Many thanks to whoever took the time to read this…

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So the timing belt kit rob sells is very good - the main reason it costs what it does is the water pump- as he sell a genuine Mitsubishi one which is a complete unit - many other timing kits you can buy for less use an aftermarket water pump- where you re-use the back of your existing pump- @Joe90 did a video on this. The choice is entirely yours and I know many people have used both approaches without issues.

The brake lines are 3/16 the standard size using M10 x1.0 flare nut - as I understand the suspension leg hard pipes are no longer available (could be wrong) but these are simple enough to make yourself using standard kunifer lines - I have done this.

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Yeah I was looking into a lot of it I want what’s best for the car so I think I will have to go for the evil empire option.

I was also thinking that if I used braided for the hard line between the 2 hoses I wouldn’t get the strength and shape I’m needing so thanks for this peice of information I will go for that option

Evil empire hose kit with kunifer lines between the two hoses followed by ptfe from the hoses to the front end with the m10 x1.0 fitments.

Does anyone have an idea on fuel lines am I right to have a 8an for main line and a 6an for return or should I keep the both of them the same size at 8an

Regarding your fuel lines - if your getting a timing kit from rob you may as well buy his pre-made SS braided fuel line and return- as these are a direct fit to your car from fuel pump - filter etc…

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im just getting some one piece brake lines for my mk2 from rob …just working out the length …will convert the bracket on the suspension arm to allow it to pass through with rubber grommet on …

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