hey guys onto my next issue now I’ve solved the last one, my rear active spoiler still doesn’t work after replacing the switches, and having read online the front needs to be working first, mine is very sluggish and struggling due to bends and damage so I’m going to renovate it, are there any hints and tips i may need to know ie timing/ it up or timing marks i need to know etc thanks again everyone
You can keep all the front aero motor and linkage mechanism in one piece, the main job will be freeing up the linkages if they are corroded to the bar, use heat and penetrating fluid and muscle to free it up, then you can work the linkages side to side and away from the corroded areas on the bar and sand those down. Regrease everything liberally and put back on the car.
Be advised, if you dont have the front aero tray attached to the motor linkage, if you try using the aero the front linkage can get caught up on itself and everything will stop working until you use a pry and some muscle to free it up.
Andy
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I have advised atleast 50-60 times people asking about that active aero at the rear that the rear is usually NOT the issue becasue it is connected to the front… The front cuts out and the rear wont work and if you remove the front the rear wont work either…
I made a post about how I got my active aero working again, you can look it up in the search function.
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Its in very tidy condition rust wise and lots of the mechs seem free but i think its been hit so need to pull it apart to straighten any bends that may be causing restrictions i just don’t want it “out of sync” if that’s possible or does it just auto adjust? Next time I’m in the shed ill take a vid of the sound, id could be the motor its self i just don’t know yet, just didn’t want to strip it down without knowing to mark points or stop it in a certain position first.
not great on the search but will look, evil empire sell a simulator to trick the system to think the front is still there but its £100, in the future i want a retro spec kit so will be deleting the front but don’t have the money yet so would prefer they system working for now
The front mechanism has a rubber cap on the back of the motor which covers and protects the manual winding knob. Try winding that knob and it should move the aero tray linkages up and down freely, if not, the main bar will be corroded to the brackets which hold it to the car. The bar doesnt need to be perfectly straight to operate but it must rotate freely in its brackets.
To align the system simply wind the front mechanism to be fully down or up according to what the rear aero position is, but the rear usually always defaults to down anyway when you turn the ignition on unless the front linkage is stuck.
Remove the whole front linkage as a unit, dont dismantle it from the motor. Free up the bar so it can rotate in its brackets and refit.
Andy
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Ahh that will explain it I don’t have the cover over the end so it’s probably full of rubbish and corrosion from years of being exposed to the elements, will take a look cheers for letting me know
Ok got the front aero hammered and bashed into some kind of working order for now, it’s noisy but works but the rear still doesn’t, so I’ve pulled it apart again and checked the switches, if the switch in the down position doesn’t click dos that mean it’s range of motion is restricted? Please check the video below. I bought them from a reputable dealer I just feel as though in the switch is too close to the trigger wheel and really both switches are on. (Oh just realised I can’t post a video 
) here’s two pics one “off” and one “on” but no click between
Is power coming to the switches when you force activate the aero and the front engine activates??
You can have the front motor hanging loose just turning while you diagnose the system… If you have the front motor in its position but not attatched to the plastic dam, then it will rotate and jam itself because the design of it is not very brilliant in its loose form 
i dont have the dam just motor and mech, its working fine, ive plugged the rear motor in and let it hang down from the boot and nothing happens, will check for power etc tomorrow i just wondered if those switches not clicking would be the reason
During my renovation I noticed that if I unplugged the motor at the front, then there was absolutely no response to the back wing… It was completely dead thus there has to be a connection to those 2 starting from the front… If I was you then I would not waste that much money on a front removal bypass … There is 100% sure a simpler way to bypass it if you or somebody you know has some electrical knowledge.
Ok update the switches are not right so I need to find a different supplier or modify the switches I have
yeah that might also be an issue if the switches are not right but joking aside, I am 100% sure you will get that system going… If there is power coming to the front and rear, then it is just a matter of getting the most likely seized parts loose again 