Thanks man, great stuff there, tomorrow weather permitting I’m going to check all of this.
I have managed to get hold of another ECU, just waiting on some upper plenum gaskets and I’m going to take it all off and put it back together carefully.
In regards to the tacho, I haven’t paid attention, but I’m really hoping it’s not the CPS, as I don’t have the tools or the know how to deal with that.
The not starting doesn’t make sense, as, time is the only difference in this scenario. If I leave it, it starts fine, if I start it and it runs for a bit, it won’t start.
I added a passage to my last post. Might be your problem explained ? It may just be the connecting harness ie going over a bump stalled it. Good luck .
Thanks that does sound like my problem, but I have checked the plug, it’s on nice and firm. I think it has been changed previously ( not in my ownership) as I can see position markings on the body, this is ofcourse if by Crank Position Sensor you mean CAS, I presume they are the same? At the top near the throttle body?
Yea it used to be heat, now it doest it, when it’s not even that warm, if I run the engine for 30 sec, then switch it off, it won’t start again unless I leave it for few hours
You really are determined to solve this yourself and I admire that.
Please remember that these cars may have a combustion engine which requires fuel, spark and air but beyond that they aren’t much like the cars of old. You now have computers which are digital and they send and receive analogue signals from a stack of sensors. Faults can be incredibly hard to find if you don’t have a stack of swap out parts or speak the language that is electronics. Even if every mechanical part and every sensor works on a test bench, you are still left with scientific laws which relate to the effects on electrical parts such as …
Heat, cold, resistance, open circuit connections, short circuit connections, atmospheric conditions, high frequency interference, low frequency interference, and static.
I hope you find the fault with help from people on this forum because, that is what forums are all about but sometimes, we all have to accept that if we can’t speak the language, we have to pay an interpreter to get us the information we need.
Good luck
I had the same kind of thing , i fitted new fuel pump and did hot wired the fuel pump to run at 12VDC when car is on , i found this by fitting fuel pressure gauge at throttle body.
Yep i had that to , ended up getting one part of the pipe undone then putit back and used some small fittings to make it back up , had to cut the pipe at top of the flange etc , bit of a job
Ha thanks Joe, yes i am going to get to the bottom of this, not many parts left to swap out.
Old bangers have been my hobbie since i was 14, when i bought an original mini clubman for £90! me and a mate when halfs and took it apart to restore
Down hill from there!
This car was running perfectly then one evening it has become the worst car i have ever owned!
I also hope with everyone help on here, we can sort this out and keep this as a record if someone has similar issues down the line they can use this as a reference, which is mainly why I give regular updates.
So i started it today, and the Tacho did read 0 while cranking, then it started and ran great for 15mins.
then it stalled and would not start and again Tacho red 0 while cranking, But having never paid attention to the tacho previously until you pointed this out, I watched a few videos online of people starting their GTO’s and theirs dont seem to move either but theirs start.
Thanks to that Service manual you sent, I followed the instructions to check the harness.
It seems all fine, as It has a solid ground on Pin 4, Solid 12.5V at Pin 3 and 5v at pin one, which is all to spec, as mentioned in the manual.
Also My new ECU arrived yesterday, came from a running car, refurbished by ECU Doctors. This makes it my 3rd ECU. So i am definitely sure its not the ecu.
Next is To get a CAS sensor and might aswell change the Engine coolant sensor as they are only around £10.
Long shot here … have you tried testing the ignition switch before and after stalling ? I’ll try and find the test sequence. check ignition switch in particular connector A and terminals 2,3,4 and 6
Hey all, sorry been off the radar for few weeks, busy with work. The Cambelt tensioner started going, it jumped a few teeth while i was just having a look at the belt condition, so i spent a fair time preparing to change that!
As an update to the Starting problem… It is SOLVED!
It was the CAS, new CAS sorted it. Purrs like a kitten now!
great effort, I wasn’t far wrong … think I mentioned it atleast 3 times 