Hello all my name is:
I have a '97 3000GT Twin Turbo, UK Spec.
Hi guys, hope we’re all well - after all it’s years of dormancy and a full service, I put in some new premium gas turned the key, and it cranked, and cranked and cranked, and… it wouldn’t come to life, as expected, really. The car has not had an MOT (A sort of technical inspection for the non-UK folk) in over a decade. However, it has been turned very recently. It had a proper service every year up until about 2013.
I’m not worried about compression or air. I have a hunch that fuel is not reaching the cylinders, so tomorrow I’m going to unplug the fuel line and just see if it spits out fuel to test if anything’s in there. Will also test relays and fuses all around. All visible hoses will be inspected for potential leaks. I doubt the injectors are clogged as I did not feel the engine try to sputter at all. I have also done the inlet manifold and TB gaskets today, and cleaned some of the boost pipes.
Does anyone have any other thoughts as to what should be done? I doubt that timing is off. As mentioned, I saw the EML, ABS, Oil pressure lights, etc… appear when I turned the key to “On” so I know that the ECU is fine.
You can’t assume timing is good. You can’t assume it’s just fuel.
Seeing the lights you mention at key on does not necessarily mean the ECU is good either.
The way to test if it is fuel related is you can spray some fuel into the throttle body to see if it kicks to life. If it starts and shuts off then you know its fuel, then you need to figure out why. If it doesn’t kick to life then you are on to the next diagnostic.
You can run a length of wire from the battery + terminal to the small BLACK fuel pump test connector where the washer fluid comes up, theres a bunch of connectors. This will run the fuel pump and you will hear fuel running through the fuel rails etc. You should also be able to hear the pump in the tank. If you hear nothing, then the fuel pump is likely dead and if the car has been stood a while it will likely be due to rust/corrosion.
This was the fuel sender out of my 3000GT that had been stood 5+ years with some fuel left in the tank…
Be mindful that removing the fuel sender unit, can lead to more repairs, to the tank studs, fuel line and even the fuel sender itself if it is badly corroded and weak. Google is your friend for advice on how to remove the fuel sender unit with the least risk of snapped pipework. Good luck!
Hi mate, sorry, my mistake, I should have mentioned. I took apart the timing cover and checked using a timing light, that’s not an issue.
We also tried unplugging the fuel line right as it comes out of the fuel pump and stuck it into an empty bottle, cranked for a sec, no fuel spat out. Leaving me to think it’s a fuel issue - this was the intuitive way for me to test it. I think what I’m going to do is try and wire up a direct connection to the fuel pump.
if we feed power directly to fuel pump:
if it doesn’t work - it’s the pump.
if it does work - relay, filter, or injectors
The previous owner did all the work on the fuel lines. I believe that line is in charge of maintaining pressure or something? The blue thing that looks like a filter is actually a pressure valve after some research. So, maybe. I trust the previous owner, not sure why they’d consciously go ahead with the whole thing knowing that it might be unsafe. It is a big job
It has not started for a long time. Nothing to do with being cold or not I think. I’ve ordered a new fuel pump, going to put it in the assembly and then try my luck then with fresh gas.
I’ll rephrase my comment; It is VERY unlikely that the clear pipe is fuel safe long term (even vapour) - so unless you know for sure what the specifications of that pipe are - you should replace it with fuel safe pipe as soon as possible.
The only reason for asking is i changed the PTU,Coils,spark plugs and leads, fuel pump, gaskets, and it turned out not blown caps just worn out. As soon as replaced it started first turn over. Not sure if thats any help
