Camshaft differences turbo/non-turbo

I have searched the forum and can not find any info about this in here. Is there a difference between the turbo and non-turbo camshafts? My 1994 VR4 motor is in the machine shop since we spun a bearing on rod #3 and the machine shop showed me the cam lobes with rust pitting on it. Must have been condensation when the car was parked for who knows how many years before we bought it. Also if anyone has a set of good stock turbo cams, that would be great as well.

Intake cams are the same, exhaust is slightly different. The na exhaust cam has like 2 degree less overlap.

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Consult the shop manual will provide you accurate information then what others have to say. I have built several VR4 engines and have always consulted the proper shop manuals ( Hard Copy) that provides specifications and information relating to a full engine diagnostics and build, same information that the designers and engineers have used to build this engine in the first place,

Where would i buy a shop manual? I’ve looked online and can’t find one

I think you can still buy the hard copys off of

I got all my hard copies from FAXON AUTO LITERATURE company based in Riverside, California, USA and currently they have a few listings on Ebay.

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You don’t really need hardcopies. 3sx does have downloadable versions available for free.

Perhaps, a full complete manual has over 1000 pages or more, in a more practical sense, everyone that owns these cars whatever models it is always SMART and WISE to have and own a complete set of shop manuals preferably a hard copy since automotive manuals downloaded on a disk and sold for a fraction of the price will not contain all valuable information. One should also be prepared to invest a good amount if they choose to own such vehicles with the plan to restore them back to factory specs or simple factory recommended periodic maintenance and trouble shooting ( so one can be knowledgeable about these type of JDM vehicles that they own or plan to buy one and educate themselves on how to work on these cars as far as repair and diagnostics is concerned and save tons of money taking it to a shop for a simple repair that one can easily do at home using the proper required factory shop manuals that are used by all certified automotive technicians at dealerships. Not cheap owing a GTO and that too a turbo model.

The downloadable and ones sold on disc have everything a factory FSM has.

so idk if im stupid or dont know how to use the pdf file service manuals. But sometimes ill be reading how to remove something and it will list it step by step. Then it will just skip the installation method entirely or jump to a completely different part of the car on the next page.

yeap like I said get the hard copy manual, pdf files dont have all the information some say they do, or perhaps they are just to cheap to invest in the real thing such as a hard copy manual.

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any idea if there is a difference between the original set and the reprint? I see both of those on the site you mentioned. Is it worth spending the extra 50 for the original one?

As you have mentioned I would completely stay away from pdf files, considering missing pgs which I mean by no information or missing information. Always look for originals and not reprints, since reprints can very easily fall in the pdf nightmare. And as pictured these original manuals have over 1000 pgs or so maybe more, didnt bother to count nor are the pages numbered. All in section and categories. You must be wondering why do i have so many? I bought the first one on the extreme left that says Dodge Stealth first gen years then I bought the others that say 3000GT and noticed a few minor differences in a few sections. Same engine and overall design, but then again if you pay enough attention in specs and numbers you will notice a slight variance between the Stealth ( which I call FAKE GTO :rofl:) version and the original GTO or the import name 3KGT
If you find one that is a reprint it should mention that or you can call the publisher listed somewhere on the first page for verification. As seen in the pic it should say PRINTED IN JAPAN which is copy righted for originals. Obviously the reprints, the paper is going to look bling bling :smiley:, the ones i have all the pages are yellowish in color and fragile so I turn them with extra care!! as for the price? you can imagine, I paid 172 big ones just for one!!!.


The cams are different depending on what car they come from. US, japan, europe, australia, all the same but different. Ist gen , 2nd gen turbo , NA, all different. 1st step is to identify what cams you’ve got. That’s the letter in the hex section. You then get the correct manual, not the one from 3sx and see what letter cam comes in which engine. The next step is to measure them yourself with a cam doctor and you’ll know that the specs in the manual are just a guide and nothing else. The duration specs from Ninja’s site are completely wrong by miles…They’re all around 180 deg duration at 0.050 inch lift… As far as the rust goes, polish it off and re use after measuring lift to confirm it’s within spec.