My '92 GTO was impossible to start and I found the fault when I carried out a Fuel Pump Control Relay Inspection as per page 13-43 of the manual. It turns out that I wasn’t getting continuity across terminals 2 and 3 when the solenoid was activated. A quick look online showed used units between £30 and £40 and, would you believe, a new unit from Mitsubishi for £293 including VAT!!!
Now here’s a thing. In trawling the net I came across an identical looking unit from Hyundai, used on a number of their cars in the early '90s. The reference on the unit is 39160-35010 and the 9 pin layout is the same. Of course, Hyundai UK says they are not available, but new ones are available from the US through ebay for about £55 including taxes.
Long story short, has anyone got any experience of these?
Update - Bought a brand new 39160-35010 Hyundai fuel pump control relay from a South Korean site, JEIL SEHUENG CO. LTD, at $39.78 USD including carriage by DHL. Delivered in less than a week. Identical to the Mitsubishi one.
Many Hyundais in the 90s came with Mitsubishi power plants. It’s not surprising you found a Hyundai part that fits.
I had same kind of thing , fitted new fuel pump and did " hot wire realy mod " for fuel pump.
fuel pump pressure has been great since
Fuel pump hotwire is a very bad idea. It outflows the FPR. Pressure rises. Bad things happen. Having incorrect fuel pressure is identical to having incorrect valve timing which is identical to having incorrect ignition timing. All 3 equally important.
Hi,
Could you share a link to this site please.
Enda
Dont agree with you 100% on that one. Would be best to have a programable ecu. But Its been shown our fule pumps dont sustain 12 volts under factory specs. The hotwire allowes for this. Epically if the fule pumpbhas been upgraded. Now some hotwired jobs are indeed better then others that ive seen.
If were talking 100% stock car is where i agree with you.
They don’t run at 12 volts, they run at 13.5 volts on high speed and 9 volts at low speed. The low speed operation is to prevent outflowing of the FPR which gives excess fuel pressure at low load. That then pegs out the low fuel trims to compensate and then it runs lean at full load. Anyone hotwiring a pump doesn’t understand the correct operation and always gets it wrong. The original idea of the hotwire was over 20 years ago and was only meant for the original pump to get a bit more out of it at the very top end of the RPM range and was only meant to give the extra voltage when required. Not when at idle or low load.
Like with many mods, they were promoted by vendors in order to make more money for themselves, not to make any car work better, In fact for the vendors it works doubly good because you then need to keep spending yet more money to fix all of the things you screw up by following their recommendation. The golden rule here is NEVER take advice from anyone who sells parts for a living.