Cool to know. The troubleshooting step is the same and it’s a good place to start because you can immediately tell which part has the problem, the car or the tool. Supposedly the tool is “on and working” but we don’t know if he/she has verified operation of scan tool on a different vehicle. Even if so, the mitsu adaptor could be bad.
If you’re interested, hook up an analog voltmeter and pull codes off the car. If the car gives codes via sweeping the analog meter (that can be picked up for $5-10 if you don’t have one) then that verifies the data link connector is good, and all the various wires, including the power (if applicable) and ground are all good. And that the inputs (sensors) are good and the wiring in between.
Supposedly the scan tool is working so I wouldn’t expect the car to correctly sweep the meter to show no faults. Then it’s just a matter of getting a pin-out of the connector and determining which pin has the problem.
Info on 1st gen OBD method:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-diagcodes91-93.htm