Just looked at this and it certainly sounds like the issue is in the clutch lines rather than the gearbox (transmission for the US 
). When you say the booster isnât working- do you still have all the vacuum tank and lines (the black tube thing on the subframe by the gearbox). The reason I ask is that with all those lines there could be a small air leak which would cause a delay in moving the fork and this gear selection. If you donât want the booster system I would remove and run a direct line from master to slave cylinder. Also remember to cap the line that runs from the booster to the vacuum tank.
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You keep saying there are no leaks or trapped air. Youâre not convinced itâs the booster. You think it might be the synchroâs. Those thoughts lead to dropping the gearbox. I personally think you have a leak related to the booster which was made to stand out more by fitting a new master cylinder⌠best of luck but Iâm out of ideas now. Fingers crossed you can get this sorted and when you do post the solution when you get a chance.
I have been following this thread and I donât know if all connections are the same on the NA, but I would back up the suggestion made by 3KGT, I had a different issue with the clutch on my 4WD NA the pedal kept going to the floor but the clutch was not operating this happened randomly.
I replaced the master and slave cylinder and they are now directly connected to each other with a stainless braided line, the block that is bolted to the gearbox housing along with all its hard lines have been removed, once done ensure you adjust the pedal travel as directed in the Factory Manual, touch wood I have not had any clutch issues since, plenty of other issues but not the clutch.
Thank you guys, I will order a new line and see if that fixes the problem.
But I do have a question about the booster.
If it has a leak somewhere wouldnât I be loosing fluid?
If you have a leak in the booster vacuum tank or the line that runs from the clutch you wonât see fluid leaking anywhere- do you still have this?
I have that booster that doesnât work but even if I donât see a leak, shouldnât I be loosing fluid?
Not if itâs a vacuum leak, it would only be air
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But when pressing the clutch pedal it produces pressure (pressurized brake fluid)
that travels from the master cylinder to slave and that pusher on to transmission fork.
Iâm trying to understand what else is in the system that could hinder that.
The clutch booster is there for the very reason to assist the pressure you apply with your foot. The booster more than likely uses a vacuum to create a pressure imbalance ie it assists. SO if you have a vacuum leak it will make it harder for you to create enough pressure to move the clutch fork to enable it to disengage. This is why I think a vacuum valve maybe the wrong way around or stuck in the booster. This would make it fight a gear change when the engine starts
But why holding the pedal in place for 2-6 seconds then enables me to switch into gear?
Not pumping just holding down the clutch pedal.
From what I have read the clutch servo (clutch booster) is a vacuum assist and does not tie into the clutch line itself.
By holding down the pedal for 2 to 5 seconds you are doing the work the booster should be doing. There must be a connection from the booster to the clutch⌠otherwise what is the point of the clutch booster ?
From what I understand it was made so the pedal would feel lighter.
Nothing else.
Get your clutch checked out. I have exhausted all my thoughts on this.
Will be doing that right after replacing clutch line (just to check any difference)
Thank you for your input.
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