Hello all my name is: YellowDog
I have a: 1991 Stealth TT
Car was running and driving great. I turned it off for only 5 minutes. I go to restart it and now it won’t crank and won’t start. Battery is new and fully charged. I was able to bump start it successfully.
Is it the starter? Could it be something else?
What is the best way to diagnose a bad starter?
When my starter went bad it was giving me the “click no start” issues. The lights would turn on but nothing would happen. Had the starter rebuilt because the dealer tested it and said it failed.
Have you watched the video that I did on starter motor rebuild and fault finding?
I saw your video on removing the NA starter.
Can’t find the video on rebuilding and fault finding. Can you share a link??
Just had that with TT one . It was the starting motor (not sure if solenoid or motor brushes as in hurry to sort so bought new).
First happened before Xmas , tow started it and went ok for 10 days (used every day) then went again. Bump started to get to garage. They took it out and worked fine on bench but wouldn’t work when put back, so new one it was . Its exchange over here so didn’t get chance to strip old one.
Hi, does your car have an alarm fitted? also my car has a relay in front of the battery, it doesn’t look original but I think it may be a mod to the existing relay .
Check your grounds and check your battery connections.
I did some testing
I have a constant 12V going to the starter assembly
I have no power to ignition trigger wire at the solenoid when turning key to crank position
What are the main sources of failure for no power to solenoid?
Broken connection where an alarm or immobiliser had been or is fitted. As I already mentioned my car has starter relay which seems to have been removed from the fuse box and a mod or upgrade done on it . It definitely relays the power to the starter , on my car anyway.
Mine has the factory security system. I’m not sure where the wires route for that
If it was me , my next step would be to confirm that the 12v is present on the throw wire at the ignition barrel when you turn your key , then you need to figure out what’s between that and the solonoid. Refer to a wiring diagram, I’m not familiar with the factory security but it’s probably a module.
If you’re in a hurry to get motoring you can easily run in a temporary throw wire via a 12v relay to the solonoid and then trace your issue at your leisure.
I was going to check the starter relay. Is there a method of removing the relays? I don’t want to destroy the relay trying to pull it off
When you locate the relay get someone to turn the ignition while you listen and hold the relay to hear or feel the click. If it seems inactive remove the relay, it should just pull out, I know they can be tight, sometimes the cover will come off but will go back on.
Next , with your probe or multimeter, check that you get 12v at the energiser pin of the relay socket when the ignition is turned (start position).Check for ground on the opposite side and also verify that the 12v permanent supply is present ( although the relay will still click without that supply).
I connected a wire from the positive battery terminal to the starter solenoid just to verify that the starter does work. So it is definitely not a starter issue.
I can hear the relay click when I turn the key to start position
That’s a good indication that the relay is operating.
Remove relay and check for permanent 12v in the socket.
I found a solution after many headaches. It’s the clutch safety switch. I unplugged this connector to disable the safety switch and it started right up.
You just have to be careful because now if you try to start the car without your foot on the clutch and it’s in gear it’s going to try to move the car.
Fair play for locating that issue, my car doesn’t have a clutch safety switch, or maybe its disabled also or maybe its just a mk2 thing.
The clutch switch is not fitted to all models. Only my North American models have it but there may be others that I am not aware of.